The Bowler Hat: 175 Years of Iconic British Style at Lock & Co.

This year marks the 175th anniversary of the bowler hat, one of the most iconic pieces of British fashion, and fittingly, its history is tied to Lock & Co., the world-renowned hatmakers located in St. James’s, London. Lock & Co., established in 1676, is the oldest hat shop in the world and the creator of the original bowler hat—a design that has become synonymous with British style, class, and even rebellion.

The Birth of the Bowler Hat

The story of the bowler hat begins in 1849 when Edward Coke, the younger brother of the 2nd Earl of Leicester, visited Lock & Co. with a request. He needed a hat that would protect the heads of gamekeepers from low-hanging branches while riding on horseback. Traditionally, gamekeepers wore top hats, which were too tall and impractical for such activities.

Lock & Co.’s chief hatmaker, Thomas Bowler, took on the challenge and created a low-crowned, hard-felt hat that was both sturdy and stylish. The result was exactly what Edward Coke was looking for: a practical yet fashionable piece of headwear that offered protection and durability. When Coke tested the hat by stomping on it, it passed the test with flying colors—and the bowler hat was born.

A Symbol of Britishness

From its practical origins, the bowler hat quickly gained popularity, first among the upper classes and eventually throughout British society. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it had become a symbol of the British working man, favored by bankers, civil servants, and businessmen who wore the hat as part of their daily attire. The bowler was the hat of choice for anyone who wanted to present themselves as a man of authority and respectability.

At the same time, it was adopted by the upper echelons of society, especially within the realms of the aristocracy and even royalty. The bowler hat’s versatility made it a favorite for formal occasions as well as everyday wear, helping it transcend class boundaries in a way few accessories ever have.

The Bowler Hat in Popular Culture

Over the years, the bowler hat has made countless appearances in popular culture, further solidifying its iconic status. From Charlie Chaplin’s comic character The Tramp, who donned a bowler in his silent film performances, to John Steed in the 1960s TV show The Avengers, the bowler became a symbol of wit, charm, and eccentricity. Its cultural significance extended beyond Britain’s borders, and it became an internationally recognized symbol of British identity.

The hat was also featured in René Magritte’s famous surrealist paintings, such as The Son of Man, where the bowler represents a sense of anonymity and mystery. In the world of fashion, the bowler continues to be reimagined, maintaining its presence on runways and in street style around the globe.

175 Years of Tradition at Lock & Co.

The bowler hat may have evolved into a fashion icon, but its connection to Lock & Co. remains just as strong. As the creators of the original bowler, Lock & Co. has preserved the tradition and craftsmanship that went into designing the very first hat. Located at 6 St. James’s Street, Lock & Co. is a family-run business with over 300 years of experience in hatmaking, catering to everyone from British royalty to Hollywood celebrities.

Each bowler hat made at Lock & Co. is handcrafted using traditional techniques, ensuring the highest level of quality and craftsmanship. The shop itself is a time capsule of British history, where customers can browse through centuries of hat-making legacy, including designs once worn by famous figures like Winston Churchill and David Beckham.

To celebrate the bowler hat’s 175th anniversary, Lock & Co. has launched limited-edition versions of the hat, paying homage to the style that first made them famous. The anniversary collection includes hand-finished designs that reflect the timeless elegance and durability of the original bowler, still as relevant today as it was in 1849.

A Legacy of British Style

The bowler hat’s enduring appeal lies in its ability to adapt while remaining deeply rooted in British culture. Over its 175-year history, it has moved from practical headgear for gamekeepers to a symbol of power, respectability, and eccentricity. As Lock & Co. celebrates this milestone anniversary, the bowler continues to represent a unique blend of tradition and modernity, securing its place as a timeless British classic.

If you ever find yourself in St. James’s, a visit to Lock & Co. is a must. Not only will you experience the shop’s rich history and impeccable craftsmanship, but you’ll also witness firsthand how the bowler hat has become one of the most enduring symbols of British style.